87 Things To Know Before Planting Potatoes In Ontario'S Fall

This time, we’re going to talk about Can You Plant Potatoes In The Fall In Ontario. There is a lot of information about Can You Plant Potatoes In The Fall In Ontario on the internet, of course. Social media are getting better and better quickly, which makes it easier for us to learn new things.

When To Plant Potatoes In Southern Ontario and When To Plant Potatoes In Southern Ontario are also linked to information about How and When to Harvest Potatoes. As for other things that need to be looked up, they are about When To Plant Potatoes In Southern Ontario and have something to do with When To Plant Potatoes In Southern Ontario.

87 Things About Can You Plant Potatoes In The Fall In Ontario | Planting Potatoes Zone 5

• Early potato varieties produce delicious thin-skinned tender potatoes, but unfortunately, they don’t store well. Once you dig them up, you can keep them in a cupboard or the refrigerator, but the flavor is best if you cook them within a week. Alternatively, you can leave first earlies to continue growing in the ground. The potatoes will initially get bigger and still have that tender new potato skin. However, if you leave them in the ground for too long, the skin will thicken, and the flesh texture may change. - Source: Internet
• Weather in spring is unpredictable. Potatoes like cool weather and moist soil. Spring is the best time of year to get these conditions. Cool and moist is not good for the person planting, but good for potato growing. - Source: Internet
• Cutting sweet potatoes into pieces, then just planting them in the ground like potatoes, won’t work. (I made this mistake once.) - Source: Internet
• Once the potatoes have been harvested, I sow a cover crop or add a source of organic matter, like manure or compost, to the top of the bed. The autumn and winter weather will work it down into the top few inches of soil. If you’re not sure of your soil pH, this is also an ideal time for a soil test. It’s also important to consider crop rotation and keep track of where you grew potato family crops, like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant. Planting these crops on a 3 year rotation cycle can reduce pests and soil-borne diseases. - Source: Internet
• Although they’re cheap and plentiful year-round at the supermarket, many gardeners still set aside garden space for potatoes (​Solanum tuberosum​). That’s partly because the humble spud simply tastes better when it’s homegrown and freshly dug and partly because they’re one of the few long-storage staple foods home gardeners can grow effectively. In fact, if your growing season is long enough, you can have both an early crop to eat all summer long and a fall crop for winter storage. - Source: Internet
• Radishes: These will not grow if it becomes too hot. A month from now, the temperature might be too hot for radishes and might cause them to go woody and hard. They’re best if planted in early spring. - Source: Internet
• No chitting. You shouldn’t chit your autumn planting potatoes. Your potatoes will have plenty of time to grow without chitting. - Source: Internet
• Foliage can be a dead giveaway for knowing when potatoes are ready to harvest. Not so much with early varieties, though the lower leaves may start to yellow when ready. With maincrop potatoes, the foliage and stems above the ground will completely die off. It happens from late August to early September, and the plants will wither into brown husks. Be aware that potato blight can cause similar foliage to die off, but it tends to happen earlier than you’d expect. - Source: Internet
• If the potato variety produces flowers, it will be towards the end of its growing season. Keep in mind, though, that not all potato plants will produce flowers. Still, most early potatoes have flowers and those appear in late spring to early summer. If you don’t see blossoms on your plants then, there’s a good chance that the plants aren’t earlies. - Source: Internet
• Planting tips: Start planting in seed pots indoors during spring, then plant outdoors in early summer as the temperature rises. Peppers mature when the temperature is above 12 C. They grow best in moderately fertile soil with good drainage. - Source: Internet
• I find the best soil for growing potatoes is a free draining deep loam soil high in organic material with a pH of 4.8 to 5.5. You should get a soil test done for NPK if you want the best chance of growing a good crop of potatoes. - Source: Internet
• Storage Potatoes – To harvest storage potatoes, insert a garden fork about a foot away from the plant and gently lift the root mass. Shovels may also be used. There may still be a few potatoes in the ground, so use a gloved hand to feel around for any missed tubers. Once harvested, gently brush off caked on soil and allow them to dry off for an hour or so outdoors. Do not wash the tubers. - Source: Internet
• Table of Contents You can jump to where you want in this article by clicking on the different sections below. To come back to this table of contents, just use the back button on your browser. Why fall? How to plant potatoes in the fall Better in the fall or spring? - Source: Internet
• How to care: Cucumbers are heavy feeders – add well-rotted manure and compost to the soil. Keep the plant well-watered, especially around the flowering stage. The soil should be kept moist at all times. - Source: Internet
• Planting tips: Grows best in organic rich soil with a lot of compost. Avoid soil that is too sandy (drains easily), or soil with too much clay (difficult to drain). They can be grown vertically on a trellis to make space in the garden. They’re best grown beside carrots; avoid growing next to potatoes. - Source: Internet
• There have been no reports of Colorado potato beetle infestations in fields planted with treated seed. So far neonicotinoids are working well, but Banks advises growers with early planted fields to closely monitor the situation. The activity of neonicotinoids starts to break down approximately 60 days after seed treatment. - Source: Internet
• Maincrop potatoes can be planted at the same time or up to a month later as second early potatoes. They need a lot more time to grow to maturity — around 20 weeks. Over the summer, they swell and develop, resulting in harvests large in both size and quantity. You harvest main crops in late summer, typically from August to September, and you know the time is right when the foliage on the plants begins to turn yellow. It will then wilt and dry; eventually, only brown withered leaves and stems will remain. - Source: Internet
• Tips on how to know when to harvest potatoes. Includes different signs to look for, such as what happens to their foliage and flowers. Also includes information on when to harvest new potatoes versus maincrop varieties. - Source: Internet
• Avoid using city water with chlorine to water plants (might burn plants) – use rainwater instead. If you use city water, you can dechlorinate by filling a container with tap water and leaving it out for 24 hours. Most of the chlorine will evaporate, making it safer to use. - Source: Internet
• I’m still waiting to taste this exciting haul. That’s because sweet potatoes must cure for about 10 days in a warm space before being eaten. Mine are spread out on racks in the greenhouse — unlike regular potatoes, they don’t have be kept in the dark. - Source: Internet
• I would advise against planting potatoes later than the start of July. Planting this late could take your growing season into November. Harvesting in November may not be a good idea as it will be colder and wetter depending on where you live. The cold, wet, weather may lead to problems getting the crop to bulk out, or become waterlogged or frozen before being harvested. - Source: Internet
• Why? Because I never expected it to happen. Up where I live, northwest of Toronto, summer crawls in like a turtle. We often get late wet snow in mid-May and the soil doesn’t really warm up until the end of June. Knowing that sweet potatoes traditionally demand balmy climes like South Carolina’s, I figured I didn’t have a hope. - Source: Internet
• When to plant: Start kale the third week of July in pots or seed trays. Transplant it outside around the second week of August. Kale tastes better if it is exposed to a little frost, but is good for planting year-round. - Source: Internet
• Your plants will be able to take advantage of the conditions right from the start. More to the point, heavy rain or even snow may prevent you from planting. This is rarely a problem in fall. - Source: Internet
• No planting in bug season. Around here, the bug season is in spring. You’ll avoid planting when the bugs are thick and bothersome. - Source: Internet
• Don’t treat them like conventional spuds. Sweet potatoes belong to the Ipomoea plant family, while regular potatoes are a kind of Solanum. So their growing requirements are quite different. - Source: Internet
• Baked sweet potatoes are so rich in texture and flavour, you hardly need butter. Scrub and dry whole potatoes and pierce several times with a fork. To preserve their sweetness, wrap in foil and bake at 325°F (160°C) to 350°F (180°C) until soft. Season with salt and pepper. - Source: Internet
• Still stumped? Another way to check when to harvest potatoes is to dig up an entire plant from the row or gently pull the soil from around the base of the plant. Either will quickly if decent-sized potatoes are waiting under the ground. Potatoes grow relatively shallowly, so you should find some just an inch or two around the base of the plant. Maincrop potatoes don’t produce much more than pebble-sized potatoes until later in the summer. If you use this method, I’d recommend doing this from the twelve-week stage at the earliest, and only if you haven’t spotted flowers on the plant. - Source: Internet
• You’ll need to allocate two “potato patches” in your garden — one for the early crop and one for the late crop. Most places don’t have a long enough season for you to dig the potatoes from your early crop and then plant a late one in the same spot; and even where that’s possible, it’s a bad idea. To minimize the risk of pests or disease accumulating in the soil, you should avoid planting potatoes repeatedly in the same spot. - Source: Internet
• Next up: a sheet of black plastic. Vesey’s says that sweet potatoes do best growing under this and mine sure did. (My neighbour, Ann, didn’t use plastic and got poor results from the slips I gave her, which were planted in bare soil.) - Source: Internet
• If harvesting potatoes from a bed mulched with straw, use a garden fork to carefully lift off the layer of straw. Most of the tubers will have formed in the straw mulch and be dirt-free. Gather them up for curing. - Source: Internet
• Maincrop potatoes, also called late-season potatoes, are the larger storage types that we dig, dry, and store for use over the winter. These are thicker-skinned potatoes that we don’t eat the skin of (usually), and they take a lot longer to grow. They can be cooked as baking/jacket potatoes or peeled and then fried, roasted, or boiled. In the USA, these include russet potatoes, any storing potato with brown skin and floury white flesh. Maincrop potatoes can have other skin and flesh colors, too! I grow an entirely purple potato called Purple Majesty that stores well, and King Edward, Cara, and Pink Fir Apple (a fingerling potato) are also popular UK maincrop potatoes. - Source: Internet
• Once you’ve planted your seed potatoes in cool but mostly frost-free weather (they can tolerate a very light frost), they’ll need as many cool days as possible before harvesting. The flowers and foliage determine when to best harvest your crop. Harvest baby potatoes (new potatoes) two to three weeks after they’ve finished flowering, and harvest potatoes for storing (mature potatoes) two to three weeks after the plant’s foliage has died back. - Source: Internet
• There are a few different ways to grow potatoes, and how you harvest them depends on how they’re growing. If you’ve planted them in the ground, use your garden fork to dig them up. Place it a good distance from the plant, about 12-18 inches from the base, and dig from there. Your aim is not to spear any potatoes as you dig since you can’t store damaged potatoes. Set any damaged potatoes aside to eat on that day. - Source: Internet
• Outside the zones with very short growing seasons where spring-planted crops ​are​ the fall potatoes, gardeners may be unfamiliar with the autumn harvesting routine. At this time of year the plants will typically not begin to die back on their own as they do in the heat of summer, but will, instead, be killed by frost. That’s fine — a few light frosts won’t kill the tubers themselves. You can leave them in the ground, harvesting a few at a time as needed until there’s a risk of the soil itself freezing. - Source: Internet
• As they begin to die off, you can cut the foliage off an inch or two from the ground or wait until the plants are completely dead and brown. Wait a further two weeks before digging the potatoes from this point. The tubers need this time to develop a thicker skin that will help them last longer in storage. - Source: Internet
• Don’t worry, though — growing them is relatively easy, as is knowing when to harvest potatoes. Especially if you know which type of potato it was that you planted. Knowing when it’s time to dig them up is a breeze if you have that information on hand. You either wait for the allocated time, or you watch the plant for the signs it gives that the potatoes are ready. If you’ve forgotten which type of potatoes you’re growing, you can use these signs to work out when to harvest them. - Source: Internet
• Ontario sweet potatoes are great baked, roasted, microwaved, steamed, boiled, sautéed or grilled. Serve them as a main course, in soups or stews, or as a side for meat, poultry or fish. For gorgeous scalloped potatoes, layer half white and half orange sweet potato slices. Peel and grate raw sweet potatoes into salads, or slice thinly for a vegetable and dip platter. - Source: Internet
• Unlike early potatoes, maincrops are suitable for long-term storage. First, you should inspect the potatoes and choose only undamaged ones for storage. Any that are damaged or have scab should be set aside for eating relatively soon. Then dry them thoroughly (called curing potatoes) before putting them in bags or cardboard boxes for storage. Don’t wash the soil off the potatoes or it will shorten their storage time. - Source: Internet
• It never fails. Every year after I turn the cover crop, volunteer potato plants sprout in the beds where I planted potatoes last year. These plants seem to know exactly when to start growing based on the weather that season. They grow vigorously in the moist spring soil, getting the jump on weeds and many pests like cutworms. - Source: Internet
• If harvesting new potatoes from a container or potato grow bag, reach into the soil to feel around for the tubers, taking just a few from each plant at any one time. After harvesting new potatoes from in-ground or container plants, feed them with a fish emulsion fertilizer to encourage healthy growth and more tubers. Container grown storage potatoes can be easily harvested by dumping the container onto a tarp or in a wheelbarrow. Sift through the soil with your hands to grab all of the tubers. Learn how to grow potatoes in containers in this short video. - Source: Internet
• Pick a dry day to harvest potatoes as moisture can spread disease and rot. What’s the best way to harvest? Carefully! Try to avoid piercing or slicing the potatoes when digging the tubers. If your spade does slip, eat damaged potatoes right away. I find it handy to keep a bowl nearby for damaged tubers which then head directly to the kitchen. Potato scab is a common potato disease and any affected potatoes are also taken to the kitchen as they may not store well. - Source: Internet
• Instead, plan to plant your first crop at the earliest practical date for your zone. That can be as early as February in Florida, but later in most other parts of the country. Early to midspring is a good rule of thumb. This early crop should be short-season varieties, so you can begin enjoying your bounty as soon as the new potatoes reach harvestable size. It’s also an ideal use-case for fingerling potatoes or any exotic varieties you want to try. - Source: Internet
• Timing is important—both for the potatoes themselves and the soil temperature. If you wait too long before planting the seed potatoes, you may have trouble getting them to grow. How long is too long? Seed potatoes will grow well if the sprouts growing from the eyes are no more than 1/2-inch long. In other words, if there are no sprouts or short sprouts, then you are good to go. To prevent your seed potatoes from sprouting, keep them in a cool, dry and dark place away from other fruits and vegetables. - Source: Internet
• The key to planting potatoes is choosing the right soil. Soil shouldn’t be heavy or wet because the potatoes may rot, but it also shouldn’t be too dry because that will slow growth. Choose a location with moist, but not soggy soil—or use a potato growing box (there are many tutorials on how to build them online, see below) so that you can better control moisture throughout the growing season. - Source: Internet
• • Then I just planted and waited. All summer. The sweet potato plants kept cheerfully churning out long tentacles of leaves ornamented with a few pretty pink flowers. They eventually covered the plastic. - Source: Internet
• Harvesting potatoes is so much fun, even the kids will want to help. It’s like digging for buried treasure – treasure you can eat! There are two main types of potatoes: new potatoes and storage potatoes, and both harvesting time and techniques differ between the two types. Because I want both new potatoes for summer cooking and storage potatoes for fall and winter, I plant at least one bed of each. Figuring out when to harvest potatoes can be a challenge for new gardeners, but once you know the basics, timing the harvest is a snap! - Source: Internet
• I would plant the next potato along every 14 inches. The closer you plant your potatoes the smaller they will grow and the more space you give them the bigger they can grow. Of course, there are limitations to this. - Source: Internet
• In the Simcoe-Delhi area, grower Joe Lach shared how the area has experienced timely, moderate rains. The plants in the area looked healthy with no indication of stress. The perfect temperatures and timely rains contrast the dry growing season experienced in some parts of Ontario last year. “[This year is the] best growing season I’ve experienced here in 40 years so far,” Lach added. - Source: Internet
• If you purchase large seed potatoes, then you’ll need to cut them down to about the same size as a small seed potato. Cut them in half, or if the potatoes are really large, cut them into quarters. Make sure that each chunk of potato has at least one eye, which is a small depression in the surface of the potato where the roots sprout. If you need to cut seed potatoes, it is best to wait at least four to seven days before planting them. Let the cut surfaces “heal” in a cool, dry place to reduce the risk of your seed potatoes rotting. - Source: Internet
• Planting tips: The ground should not be too moist when planting. Plant tuber are best when planted at soil temperatures between 10 and 30 C. Prepare the soil by adding well-rotted animal manure or compost; fresh manure will burn plant. Grow beside beans or peas; avoid growing next to cucumbers or tomatoes. - Source: Internet
• For your fall crop, choose long-season varieties so the beginning of their season will coincide with the end of the harvest of your earlier crop. These typically take 90 to 110 days (and sometimes longer), so look up the expected frost date for your area and then count backward by the days-to-maturity for your specific cultivars. That may place the planting date for your autumn potatoes anywhere up to mid-August, depending on your climate. - Source: Internet
• Maincrop potatoes may also produce flowers and sometimes green berries (toxic, don’t eat), but these will come at the end of summer. If the foliage starts to die back or develop black spots before four months from planting, it may also be a case of potato blight or another potato disease. If you determine that your potatoes have blight, remove all the foliage and stems and either burn or throw them away. Wait two weeks, then dig the potato tubers up. Throw any away that have black splotches or remain wet after drying. - Source: Internet
• Get a head start on the growing season. Potatoes that you plant in autumn will start growing their roots during the winter. Plus, they will start growing above ground as soon as the soil warms up. This lets your plants get going before insect pests arrive. - Source: Internet
• Another way to grow potatoes is under mulch; you’ll sometimes see the method referred to as no-dig potatoes. You set the seed potatoes on the soil’s surface and then cover them with a thick layer of compost or straw. The potato plants grow right up through the mulch, and the potato crop is incredibly easy to harvest. You simply push the mulch aside and harvest your spuds. - Source: Internet
• I’m zone 9a and plant first earlies on or around St Patrick’s Day, but I have planted them as early as late-February before. If a frost comes after the potato foliage is up, it can damage them, which is why many people earth up their early potatoes. That means drawing soil or compost up around the plant, even completely covering the foliage. You can also use a row cover to protect potato plants from frost. - Source: Internet
• New Potatoes – All potatoes can be new potatoes if harvested when the tubers are still small and thin-skinned, about 50 to 55 days from planting the seed potatoes for early maturing varieties. The first sign that new potatoes have formed is the appearance of the flowers. At that point, feel free to start harvesting from the potato plants. For a long harvest of new potatoes, stagger your seed potato plantings or plant early and late maturing varieties. That way you can enjoy tender new potatoes from late June through August. - Source: Internet
• Clay soils are prone to waterlogging or drying out and very sandy soil can also dry out quickly leading to scab on the potatoes. You can upgrade your soil by adding the minerals or soils you are lacking. For example, if you have very clay soil in your vegetable garden you could upgrade it by adding more shells, sand, and organic material like manure or compost and then rototill it through. - Source: Internet
• Greens include: lettuce, arugula and kale. Gardeners can also enjoy winter squash, spinach, asparagus, and peas. Continue planting tomatoes and peppers (also a deer-resistant plant) and sweet corn. - Source: Internet
• If you have too many early potatoes to eat, you can temporarily leave them in the ground. Just be aware that you may need to peel them before cooking them. Alternatively, you can preserve potatoes in a pressure canner. They’re a low-acid vegetable that needs precise handling and canning to make them shelf-safe. Pressure canners are not common in Britain and Europe but are widely used by preserving enthusiasts in North America. - Source: Internet
• New Potatoes – When the plants begin to flower, usually sometime in July, you can start harvesting new potatoes by reaching into the side of the hill and taking a few tubers from each plant. I use a gloved hand, not a tool, for this task as I don’t want to damage the plants and I want to keep my hands (relatively) clean. Once you’ve harvested a few new potatoes, push the soil back in place and mound it around the plants. - Source: Internet
• In the Alliston area, grower Bill Vasily shared that there are solid fields in the region with rows closed and beginning to flower. The majority of these fields were the earliest planted fields, but there are some late planted fields that have uneven progress. Weeds, such as ragweed, could be a problem for some of the late planted fields. - Source: Internet
• If you like “new potatoes,” then you can start harvesting within two to three months of planting, although most gardeners will only harvest a small portion of their crop while allowing the rest of the potatoes to keep growing. To harvest larger potatoes, find out what the recommended growing time is for the variety you chose—usually between 70 and 100 days. When the time is right, cut the potato plants back to the ground, water them one last time, and then wait two weeks to let the potatoes age and the skins toughen up — in the ground. - Source: Internet
• Though you can harvest many main-crop potatoes as earlies, or carefully dig a few out after the plant has flowered, I think it’s best to grow types specifically bred to be earlies. They’ll crop earlier and be bred for flavor and texture. I don’t often grow maincrops, but when I do, I tend to leave them to grow into the biggies they’re supposed to. - Source: Internet
• Harvesting your potatoes is easy. If they’re in a plot of soil in the garden, gently turn the soil with a spade or potato fork and pick up the potatoes you find. Brush off the dirt on each potato, then allow them to cure for another week or two in a cool, dry place. In containers, many potato bags have “windows” to access the tubers. If you’re harvesting new potatoes, they don’t need to be cured. - Source: Internet
• Harvest sooner. Start sooner, harvest sooner. Plus, even potatoes with the longest growing time will mature before the winter because they have the entire spring, summer and fall to grow. - Source: Internet
• To keep your potato plants growing strong all summer, there are a few things that you should do. First, once the potato plants have grown to roughly 12 inches in height, you should mound soil around the base, calling “hilling,” to help protect growing tubers. Mound the soil up to 6 inches in height, out to 15 inches from the base of the plant. - Source: Internet
• The time it takes potato plants to produce a crop is dependent on whether the potato is an early potato variety or a maincrop (storage) variety. Early potatoes need much less time from planting to harvest and grow good crops of thin-skinned new potatoes. You tend to harvest early potatoes in late spring to early summer since they take around eight to fourteen weeks (55-100 days) to harvest. Maincrop varieties take much longer, often around five months. - Source: Internet
• For sweet potato recipes, visit www.foodlandontario.ca or www.ontariosweetpotato.com. - Source: Internet
• If you cannot find potatoes specifically bred to be first or second earlies, you can still harvest new potatoes from maincrop varieties. Beginning in July, use your hands to pull the soil or mulch from around a plant. Take just a few baby potatoes from the surface, then cover the plant back over. Taking a few potatoes from each plant won’t hurt it, and the rest of the potatoes can continue growing into big storage potatoes. - Source: Internet
• My favorite potatoes to grow fit into the first early category. You can plant them two weeks before your last frost date and have a crop two to three months later! First early potatoes are small and tender-skinned and taste incredible in those early days of spring. You can start harvesting them when they’re about the size of an egg or leave them in an extra week or two to plump up to a larger size. - Source: Internet
• The soil may be too warm for potatoes to perform at their best by the time you plant your late crop. They prefer a cool soil, so minimizing heat at planting time is helpful. Plant in the cool of the evening, water them in well and ideally apply a couple of inches of loose hay, straw or similar mulch to help shield them from the sun’s heat. Water regularly until the days begin to cool, and provide some shade if you’re in an especially hot growing area. - Source: Internet
• Yet all keen gardeners like the challenge of growing something new. And sweet potatoes (simply baked in the oven and served with butter and salt), have become a recent fave of mine. So, also knowing that Canadian farmers are now successfully cultivating this relatively new crop near Lake Erie, I decided: why not give it a go? - Source: Internet
• However, there’s a definite technique to growing sweet potatoes. And it’s tricky. Here’s what I’ve learned: - Source: Internet
• Once cured, move the potatoes (removing any that have signs of damage) to bushel baskets, cardboard boxes (with ventilation holes poked in the sides), low baskets, or brown paper bags. You can also find multiple drawer harvest storage at many garden supply stores. Don’t pile them too deeply, however as that can encourage rot to spread. Cover containers with cardboard or sheets of newspaper to block light. Light turns the tubers green and green potatoes contain solanine, a toxic alkaloid. - Source: Internet
• Potatoes can be grown in any number of different style planters. Bags are very popular. Check out this clever method of growing them right in burlap sacks! - Source: Internet
• Dig the potatoes carefully, discarding the original seed pieces (which should still be visible at the plants’ roots) and any diseased potatoes you find. Potatoes with rot should be discarded; those with insect damage or physical damage from your garden spade or digging fork can be set aside to eat first. The remaining potatoes will need to “cure” for three to five days in a warm, dry, well-ventilated place so their skins can mature. Then, any excess soil can be brushed off, and they can be moved to an unheated basement or root cellar for long-term storage. - Source: Internet
• Most sites (and seed catalogs) assume you’re planting in spring, which is the more traditional option. Growing a fall crop requires a few adjustments, starting with your supply of seed potatoes. Those are often unavailable by midsummer, unless you store your own or arrange them in advance with your supplier of choice. Alternatively, you can buy your seed potatoes for both early and late plantings in spring and keep the seed for your fall potatoes in the refrigerator until planting time. - Source: Internet
• Second early potatoes generally produce flower buds that sometimes bloom and sometimes don’t. It’s time to dig up your tender, homegrown potatoes when the buds drop, or the flowers that do bloom begin to fade. At this point, the leaves will still be green, but some may start fading to yellow. The potato crops from second earlies can be like first earlies in size and tenderness. Leave them growing for longer, and the potatoes can get bigger too! There’s a fine line between big early potatoes with tender skin and big early potatoes with thickened skin, so don’t leave them too long. - Source: Internet
• When it comes to planting in containers, it’s best not to use plain garden soil only in your container as it is too dense and will compact. It’s best to use a good potting mix, which you can find in 40 bags at most garden centers. A good mixture is 1/3 garden soil, 1/3 soilless potting mix, and 1/3 finished compost. - Source: Internet
• Before they can be stored, potatoes need to go through a curing process. This helps the skin thicken up and extends the storage life of the tubers. To cure potatoes, lay them on newspaper, trays, or cardboard in a cool, dark spot (50 to 60 F, 10 to 15 C) with high humidity for one to two weeks. Pick a location that offers good air circulation. - Source: Internet
• Check the potatoes for ripeness by rubbing the skins with your thumb. If they are fully ripe and suitable for long-term storage, the skins won’t rub off under thumb pressure. If you harvest them too early, they will not be fully ripe and should be regarded as “new” and eaten soon. - Source: Internet
• Store potatoes in hessian or paper bags in a cool garage, basement, shed, or a root cellar if you have one. Check them regularly to spot any signs of rot or pests and ensure you eat the best ones first. Someone I know once tried to save the best ones for last, but by the time he got to them, the mice had already had their turn. - Source: Internet
• Finally, you’ll need to keep an eye out for pests and diseases. To avoid bacterial or fungal disease, it is best to plant your potatoes in a new spot each year. The potato beetle is a common pest, but you can prevent an infestation by inspecting the undersides of potato leaves for eggs. If you spot a yellow to orange cluster of eggs, remove the affected leaves. - Source: Internet
• Within the early category, you have potatoes that grow faster than others. The quickest is ‘first early’ potatoes, which can give you a harvest of new potatoes eight to twelve weeks after planting, depending on the variety. ‘Second early’ potatoes generally take fourteen to sixteen weeks to mature, which is excellent because it staggers the harvest if you plant both first and second earlies in your garden. You can plant them at the same time or wait a couple of weeks to stagger the harvests more. - Source: Internet
• Potatoes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow producing heavy yields of tasty tubers when planted in garden beds and containers. Plus, there’s so many awesome potato varieties to grow – from fingerlings to russets – in a rainbow of colors. But as the crop is produced below ground, it’s hard to tell when the tubers are ready to dig. So, how DO you know when to harvest potatoes? - Source: Internet
• You cure potatoes by spreading them out in a warm, dry place such as a garage or greenhouse. You could even leave them outside in the sun for a few hours, turning them over after one side is dry. Leaving potatoes in the sunlight for a day or two can cause them to turn green, though. Small amounts of green are harmless, but if a potato turns dark green, you want to avoid eating it. - Source: Internet

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